file Nickel Plating Removal

3 weeks 6 days ago #6481 by Blake Matthews
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  • Nickel Plating Removal was created by Blake Matthews
    Hey Everyone,

    Has anyone found a reliable method for removing nickel plating? Looking for an at-home method for removal that (hopefully) won’t involve procuring any nasty chemicals. Fallback is to take it to my plater but hoping I can do it at home instead. Except for the drawer front, the whole machine is bronze.

    I picked up this old model 35 3/4 that is unique because it has 2 knobs on the lid and the lid closes within the side pieces rather than on top of them. Not sure how old it is since the model number S79000 doesn’t give the year it was made. By other ones I have seen, maybe just after 1900?

    I appreciate the help!

    Blake
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    3 weeks 5 days ago - 3 weeks 5 days ago #6482 by Larry Krieger


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  • Replied by Larry Krieger on topic Nickel Plating Removal
    Reverse plate. All you need is a power supply and a conductive bath. The biggest problem is big parts in a small bath. Use a variable power supply so you can control it. You have to remove any protective coatings first.

    Woodies Wanted

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    3 weeks 5 days ago #6483 by Blake Matthews
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  • Replied by Blake Matthews on topic Nickel Plating Removal
    Thanks Larry, do you have a drawing or picture of a setup that you have used?

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    3 weeks 4 days ago #6484 by Larry Krieger


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  • Replied by Larry Krieger on topic Nickel Plating Removal
    No drawing or picture. I never document anything. Get a cement mixing tray from home depot. It's about 2x3 feet and about 8 inches deep. Get a gallon of distilled white vinegar and tap water. Get a DC power source. You can use a car battery, a battery charger or a DC power supply. Highly recommend using a DC power supply since it is controlable. You'll also need a copper sheet,bar or pipe. If I remember right the negative lead will get plated so you'll need to connect the positive lead to your part and the negative lead to the sheet, bar or pipe. Start with the small parts, they are easier. Larger parts can be more problamatic due to variations in the electrical field within the solution. If it's wired correctly the copper will start to be plated with nickle from the part.

    WORD O CAUTION: The process doesn't stop when the nickle is tranferred, the bronze will start to tranfer once it's exposed.

    Woodies Wanted

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    3 weeks 4 days ago #6488 by Robert Mellon


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  • Replied by Robert Mellon on topic Nickel Plating Removal
    Do you have access to a glass bead blaster. It works great . It removes any plating in no time.

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    3 weeks 4 days ago #6489 by Todd Crook


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  • Replied by Todd Crook on topic Nickel Plating Removal
    I use glass bead media as well. I have never had any problems removing the nickel. It does not hurt the bronze as long as you don’t go crazy on the air pressure. Plus you can clean rusty parts very easily.

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    3 weeks 2 days ago #6492 by Blake Matthews
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  • Replied by Blake Matthews on topic Nickel Plating Removal
    Appreciate the replies everyone. We will see which method gets the plating out of the detail sections of the dolphin case.

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    2 weeks 3 days ago #6495 by Richard Witcher
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  • Replied by Richard Witcher on topic Nickel Plating Removal
    In my younger days when I didn't have the money to pay a professional to de-nickel it, I set up my own system. I had a large plastic garbage can & filled it about half way up with sulfuric acid & water (2 to 1?) & some other item that I can't remember ( I misplaced the book that I had). I had a large battery charger set on 6 volt (12 volt is faster but pits it), also the small chargers just don't work). Then I flattened out a 1 pound lead fishing weight. I using 12 gauge house wires & I hung the lead weight on one side of the can & the item you are de-nickel on the other. Make good connections. I don't remember which side is positive but it is important. Turn your charger on & it & it will attract the nickel to the lead. Now there are a lot of veriables. First you have to have all the paint & oil off or it won't work. Second don't let the cables hang on the side of your plastic can. They get hot & will melt the can down the side & you have a major problem. Third it must be outside (can kill you with the fumes) Wear mask, do't breath fumes. You can't take the parts out to early & put it back in, it will all black. Wash As soon as you remove. The larder the item is will take longer. Some small parts I daisy chained together. I did a few like this but never got the great results that I wanted. MAJOR problem; after you get finished you have to dispose of this acid. No one will take. I gave it up & went to a professinal. I'm sure that you can find the book or "how too" on line. Also there is a company that sells a kit for plating etc. Remember the old warning; Don't try this at home!!! I have some other books that were from " internation textbook co. Scranton, pa. from 1928 about castings. The one I can't find was part of the set.
    Dick

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